Materials: ROTERA lanterns
The IKEA Rotera lanterns come with 6 glass windows with a silly star engraved in the middle. We took out the glass and inserted plexiglass with a cut out vinyl on top. Each panel symbolizes one of the 5 elements of the TAO. Earth, Water, Sky/Metal, Wood and Fire. The sixth panel contains the TAO sign.
Materials: LAMPLIG chopping boards
Do you have hifi or media separates? Do they need a home? Are you annoyed that anything with the name “hifi” or “audiophile” is immediately overpriced?
Me too!
I came up with the harebrained idea of making my own hifi rack when I realised the Lamplig chopping board looks great, and is exactly the right width. I found this site after I started, so I thought I’d share the love. I hope someone finds it useful.
Disclaimer: as usual, this moneysaving hack is nowhere near as cheap to finish as you’d hope. It’ll also likely eat right into all that free time you thought you had, like all “moneysaving” hacks tend to do.
Apart from the Ikea chopping board, everything else I bought on eBay. I used expensive bits to look pretty, but the plans’ll let you swap some bits out for cheaper.
Warning: my plans will give you shelves that allow for a maximum unit height of about 110mm (4.5″). If your separates are taller than that (I’m looking at you, surround sound amp!), then you need to modify these plans. Good luck!
Second warning: the Lamplig is 460mm wide, so this is the maximum width item you can put on the shelves. Do be careful, Bond.
Enough words, check out the plans. Keep your eye out for my mistakes, who knows how many there are. Sorry in advance.
Materials: BORRIS Floormats x 10
I know this isn’t the first Borris carpet on ikea hackers, but I hope the new shape will be inspiring
I cut the Borris floormats into squares and used duct tape to make sure the stay together in the shape.
You can see more pictures here.
Materials: PS Media Storage Cabinet, BJÄRNUM folding hooks
1. Cut 3/4″ plywood to same dimensions is metal doors.
2. Drill shallow holes at top and bottom corners of one side each door using pivot hinge holes in metal doors as the template.
3. Cut steel rod that is the same diameter as pivot hinge L-rods used on metal doors with hacksaw. The length should be so that once the rod is inserted into the holes drilled in the wood, the ends stick out no more than 1/2″.
4. Insert bottom rod on each door into hole in cabinet frame. Pop cabinet top up to allow top rod to fit into place on cabinet.
5. Affix BJÄRNUM folding hooks into place. The hooks should be affixed upside down.
6. To use the old locks, use the metal door as a template for hole placement and drill a 3/4″ hole from the front halfway through the wood, and drill a 1″ or larger hole halfway through from the back.
For this project I used Baltic birch plywood finished with rub-on oil and wax.
Materials: FAKTUM
When I decided that Faktum will become my kitchen furniture I faced a problem that there is no corner cabinet for sink. There were only two possible choices for corner cabinet: 90 by 90 cm and 120 by 60 cm. I went with the latter. First I decided that I have to shorten the cabinet by 20 cm – to 100 cm. I cut three elements: bottom base and those two upper joints.
Then I connected them with the side using confirmat screws – one for each top joint and three for the bottom.
I decided that it would be useful to have big, high drawer for trash bin so I mounted 40cm Rationell drawer on the bottom. I used some brackets I have left in my inventory to mount it to the bottom of the drawer.
I have replaced not visible front of the cabinet with cheapest white matte 60 cm Harlig door because original part has some holes drilled in it. Today I would rather use cover panel matching the style of the doors (white high-gloss Abstrakt). I cut a hole in the side so all the necessary pipes can go through. I have also added a 4 x 4 cm wooden bar to support the weight of the worktop.
I have put a custom wooden worktop on the cabinets and this is how the final result looks like.
Materials: EXPEDIT 2×2 & 1×1
So, this probably isn’t a hack or so, but I do like how it turned out.
I got myself a 2×2 expedit and realized it was way to high for it to be my side-table. I started thinking and went ahead and got me the 1×1 Expedit shelf and used the sideboards from that to make this sidetable more suitable. Still a tiny bit to low, I attached the (barely visible legs) and, yes.. Very happy with the height. I had to paint the glass-door-innards black since they only are sold in white.
Ok. So what to do with the left-over pieces? My small chest of drawers was imagined and .. built.
