I recently bought a SKOGHALL side table, but then realised that glasses or bottles with bumped bottoms might not stably stand on it, and might lean into one of the many square holes. Using 4 mm MDF, MDF filler, some sanding and high gloss paint, it now has a very smooth surface without holes.
I wanted a laundry sorter that also functions as a tv stand for my bedroom. I screwed together three Akurum cabinets and created a base for extra stability. I used shorter Harlig doors to leave space at the top to toss clothes. I bought a couple slats of pine wood to create the top doors and frame. The top doors were spray painted white to match the Harligs.
The knobs are also from Ikea. Using wood glue I affixed a piece of beveled trim to the top for a bit of design, then sanded and stained the frame a glossy black. I decorated the cabinet with a wall decal and attached a set of wheels for easier mobility on carpet. For the interior I just attached small adhesive hooks and hung the laundry bags. Now I just lift out the bags and I’m ready to do laundry, presorted. The plus is that I now have a stand for my television and whatever else.
Hi! I just bought this KLÄDSAM mobile, I would really like to turn it into a pendant lamp.
Simply I just don’t figure out where to put the lamp. (I have already manged to understand where to put the cable and how to fix it to the ceiling).
Any ideas/ Help? Consider the “cage” part is not fixed heavily, so you can bend/move the bars.
Thanks for the help!!
Materials: STOLMEN, 2 clothing rails, brackets
Description: Here it is my solution for storing part of the fleet.
I could take advantage of the high ceiling in my room: 305cm (10ft) using as little width and depth as possible.
The Stolmen post is perfect for the job, altogether with two clothing rails and all the brackets required.
The beams holding the hooks are made with solid timber, 50x70mm and drilled to ø30mm, so they rest on the rails on a relatively wide area (avoiding a stress point).
Note that the shelf is optional, I’ve used it as it is very convenient for leaving helmets, lights, gloves, etc.
One thing that is VERY IMPORTANT: none of the bikes in the picture is above 10kg, so the total weight carried by the system is about 40kg.
Keep this in mind, as Ikea does not state the maximum load for the posts and the clothes rails.
I would NOT USE IT with loads over 55-60kg, but it is up to you. Fixing the posts on the ceiling is mandatory! 
Materials: EXPEDIT, MDF
Description: I used a place to store some wine bottles. Useful and decorative!
I purchased the Pax Wardrobe from Ikea (39 3/8″x 92 7/8″). I got the sliding shoe rack for the bottom, six (6) sliding wire baskets, and one shelf for the top. I assembled it easily enough and it was working great. Fairly sturdy and capable, I was satisfied with my purchase.
A few months later, it came time to move to a bigger, better place. Perfect, I think, more room for my wardrobe! Alas, moving the assembled Pax Wardrobe turned out to be more difficult than anticipated… it turned out to be impossible. It was too big for the doorway and the hall angles. I tried disassembling it to move in pieces, but since they make you nail 20 small nails into the back cover, and the fact that the particle board is weak, makes this a nearly impossible task as well. I got angry and went Hulk on the p.o.s. smashing it into small enough pieces that would fit in the dumpster.
I thought to myself… I still have these wire baskets that are holding all my clothes, and they work great… I can design something better. Something sturdy, that could survive an earthquake (or at least a move). Something that is small and light enough for an individual to transport through tight spaces.
So, I went to work. Sketched up some plans. A few trips to home depot later… voila!
I build two individual frame structures with solid sides that would hold three wire baskets each. I used pine plywood for the solid sides and Birch planks for the cross members. The measurements can be seen below. I had the lumber cut at Home Depot at a very reasonable cost. I predrilled all my holes and uses sturdy steel construction hardware to reinforce the joints. I used 5/8″ screws and 2 1/2″ nails to secure everything. I attached the inside wire basket brackets first, and then proceeded to attach the cross members to the sides with the metal brackets on the inside, 8 screws per corner. Once the framework was finished, I pounded some nails in from the sides for additional support (again predrilled holes to avoid splitting). No glue. I sanded it meticulously with a large grain and then a finer grain sand paper to avoid any splinters. I recommend a power sander or at least a quality sanding block. I then gave it a dark coat of Walnut stain followed by a clear coat of Polyurethane.
I didn’t want my bottom drawer to be on the floor completely, so I built a small table with the leftover plywood and 4 pre-fabricated table legs I got at Home Depot. They are affixed to each other with bolts. The top and bottom units are also fixed to each other, but not permanently. I drilled aligning holes in the bottom and top edges where they meet and uses a bolt (with the head removed) to line them up and hold them in place.
The wire baskets went in a little tight but work fine and pull out and go in smoothly. I didn’t want the whole thing crashing down when I pull open the top drawer.
I’m pretty happy with the results. I was so frustrated when the original wardrobe failed, that I wanted to design something better on my own and share it with people in similar situations.
Good luck!
Hi,
I do love all the Expedit series and I was about to buy another one for my sons room, till I saw this. Any ideas how I can hack Expedit 4*4 to look this way?
When I built my first IKEA NÄSSJÖ RGB lamp, I had multiple trimmers and push buttons to setup fading speed, brightness and color. Now I replaced them with a remote control. I chose one of these common rgb remote controls that are shipped with every other cheap rgb lamp.
Check out my blog for detailed specifications and to get access to the code, pcb design and partlist. Go here.
The IKEA Expedit is a classic and versatile piece of furniture, and needs no introduction! My old black-brown 4×2 one was due for a makeover after years of use, and a few very noticeable scratches down one side. I decided to give it a refresh using another IKEA product: the Anno Sanela panel curtain. The grasscloth-like material was perfect for transforming my out-of-the-box Expedit into something with a custom, expensive look.
Materials needed:
- One 4×2 Expedit
- One Anno Sanela panel curtain in gray
- Mod Podge or other adhesive
- Foam paintbrush
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
Step 1:
Apply a thick layer of Mod Podge (or other adhesive) onto one of the short sides of the Expedit. Unroll the Anno Sanela panel and align with the edges of the Expedit, letting the excess of the panel curtain hang over the front. Press the material down onto the edge of the Expedit you coated with Mod Podge, making sure to smooth it out and avoid air bubbles or puckering.
Step 2:
Continue applying Mod Podge to the remaining two sides and pressing the material down on top of it smoothly. Work in small sections.
(Note: There will be a small gap at one end since the curtain panel isn’t quite long enough to make it around the three sides of the unit. That’s ok – just use some of the excess material that you trim away in the next step to cut some small pieces to fit that area and glue them down.)
Step 3:
Carefully trim the excess material off as close to the edge of the Expedit as possible using scissors.
Step 4:
Measure the width and height of the Expedit and cut two long pieces of each width and heigh measurement to cover the thick front edge. Those pieces should measure two inches wide. Glue those down with Mod Podge as well.
All the Mod Podge to dry and you’re all done!
For more information and photos, go to this post.
Materials:
· Akurum Wall Cabinet Frame 30” x 24”
· Härlig Door 15” x 24”
· Härlig Door 15” x 15”
· 2 sets of Integral Hinges
· Rationell Fully Extending Drawer 24”
· Filur 3-gallon Trash Bin with Lid
· Dustpan and Broom
· 2 Bästis Hooks
Description: My IKEA Hack was inspired by my need to hide my cat’s litter box away, like so many other hackers. My cat has the Clever Cat top-entry litter box, which poses unique issues when trying to create a cabinet to enclose it. As a top-entry litter box it is 15” high and you have to include enough space so kitty can still jump on top to enter.
Since this is my first hack, I wanted to try and keep the actual “hacking” to a minimum and be creative with materials. My starting point was the Clever Cat litter box itself, which has a 20” by 15” base and stands 15” high. I found the Akurum 30” by 24” wall cabinet frame, which when turned on its side (so it is 30” tall instead of 24”) would be perfect, allowing enough room for the litter box itself and head room for kitty to jump on top of it. I selected the wall cabinet frame because it had 5 sides, whereas the base cabinet frame only had 4 sides. I assembled the cabinet as the instructions indicated.
I had to get a little creative with the doors and drawer because I put the wall cabinet on its side. By rotating the wall cabinet, all the pre-drilled holes for installing drawers, shelves and doors were on the top and bottom of the cabinet. This set up was fine for the bottom door (Härlig 15” by 24”) which opens down like a drawbridge. The top though required extra effort. Because I didn’t want to cut anything, I bought a smaller door for the top half (Härlig 15” by 15” door) which left a large opening for kitty’s entrance. Unfortunately the pre-drilled holes in the top of the cabinet wouldn’t work for this door, so I measured where holes would need to be on the left hand side of the cabinet and drilled them myself to hang the door.
The final piece of the design was the drawer. Another challenge with this (and any) litter box is that it’s heavy to drag in and out of a cabinet. Installing a drawer (Rationell fully extending 24” drawer) allows me to easily pull the box out of the cabinet to clean and then move it back in again. But like the small door on the front, there aren’t pre-drilled holes to work from so those have to be measured, marked and drilled on your own. The drawer also had to be elevated slightly to clear the hinges from the large door on the bottom. Also be aware that the unit can lean or tip when the drawer is fully extended since the litter box is heavy. Anchoring the cabinet to a wall can fix this.
After that, there are just small additional things I did for the cabinet. I added a hook to the back of the small door for the scooper and a hook to the side of the cabinet for a dustpan and broom. There was also enough space next to the litter box to store a small trash can and the extra litter container. This self-contained litter station cost me about $115.
In designing a new workspace within a heritage building – an old church hall built in 1915 – I needed a cost effective way to create 2 separate spaces (existing coffee shop and new shared workspace), one that would have minimal or no impact on the fabric of the building itself.
My solution: 4 standalone shelving units from the Besta range, each mounted on MDF (for added stability) and industrial castors, used as storage on the workspace side, then clad on the back with ply and the same mouldings and VJ/panelling as the rest of the building. The 4 units slot together (the mouldings overlap) and can be moved around as required. I added some vibrant wallpaper to liven up the coffee shop side of the space.
I first added 2 wooden boards at the FJELLSE headboard to make it sturdy. Then I wrapped 2 layers of sponge at the headboard as cushioning. The other 3 side frames were also lined with a thin layer of sponge. Fabric was used to wrap up the frames using staple gun.
Voila! I have a low-cost comfortable chaise lounge in 4 hours:-)
Hello, this is my wall-to-wall Expedit-based desk. It was pretty simple but it turned out quite nicely, so my girlfriend convinced me to submit it here. I don’t have any “making of” pictures though since I hadn’t planned on posting it when I was making it.
When my girlfriend and I moved into our new apartment, we had a large office space and we wanted a really big desk to fill it. The space was about 12.5 feet (380 centimeters) across, and we wanted a wall-to-wall desk that we could share.
I knew I wanted to use Expedit 2×2 storage units for a good chunk of the desk, because I love storage. I wanted the shelves to face out from the desk though. It seemed like most Expedit desks have the shelves facing in towards the center since that is how the standard Expedit desk mounting bracket is designed to be used.
I just used some double-wide L brackets from the hardware store to mount the Expedit desktop pieces onto the sides of the Expedit 2×2 units. Because the brackets are being screwed into what is basically particle board, I used wood screws with large threads and filled all my pilot holes with wood glue before screwing the brackets into place. The wood glue will dry into the particle board to make the screws much sturdier. The screws are holding up a surface that is load bearing, so I wanted to make sure they wouldn’t tear out.
Originally both desktops were going to be mounted flush to the tops of the 2×2 storage units (for aesthetic reasons) but my girlfriend wanted her side of the desk to be a little lower. It ended up working out though, because it allowed me to use the standard Expedit desk “leg” piece, which would otherwise have been too short.
I also wanted smaller shelves on my side, which would be about the size of the ones in the shelf inserts, but open to the back so I could run cables through them. Yes, I am very particular about what I wanted in my desk 
I used the two half-size dividers from the rear Expedit unit to make them. I drilled 3/8” holes into the vertical dividers in the front Expedit, and into the left side of the frame so that I could put the extra dividers in using the standard Expedit wooden dowels.
We ended up liking how it came out, hopefully you will too.
