Monday, November 25, 2013

Gilded KLINGSBO By: Jengablox

GildedKLINGSBOTable


We had two KLINGSBO end tables for about a year, but the glass tops showed fingerprints, dust, and water rings far too easily. Also, the stark black and glass look didn’t match with our warm cozy living room style. So I spray painted the underside of the glass with bronze Rustoleum paint. The result is really lovely and makes the tables look more “luxe” and expensive! They definitely show less dirt. You could use any color you want to match your room, and of course, you could also paint the black metal tables. I recommend putting thin layers of paint so you can decide whether you want a more or less opaque look. Also, we use round braided SOARÉ placemats on the table shelves underneath which covers up the black flower motif and further softens the pieces.







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/5DWDitv4gLw/gilded-klingsbo.html From Jengablox

The Unrecognizable Rast By: Ellen

photo 2-1


The Rast has been hacked again and again, and with good reason: It’s a solid-pine piece furniture, cheap (at $35), and bland enough to beg a personal touch.


So, when I was looking for a dresser for my bedroom, I needed something that was shorter and narrower than my footboard, and rather shallow, since my space is limited. I looked all over the internet and what I found was disheartening. Everything was either too tall, or the drawers were too deep, or the piece looked like it was made of little better than cardboard.


Enter the Rast, stage left!


Two Rasts side-by-side would fit perfectly in the space at the end of my bed, and would be just slightly narrower than my full-sized footboard.


Ikea Hackers and other bloggers have featured a number of Rast hacks, and I primarily used three to accomplish mine.


The first, from The Turquoise Home, I used for trimming the drawer fronts and sides, and for adding baseboard to the bottom.


photo-7 photo-6


The second, from Take the Side Street, I used to model my tabletop.


The third, from Nik here on Ikea Hackers, I used as a guide for connecting two into one solid piece.


All three of these hacks offer wonderful step-by-step instructions.


For my hack, this is the basic method I followed:


Materials:

2 Rasts

~40 linear feet of 1″ pine lattice trim

8 linear feet of 9/16″ x 1-3/16″ pine trim for the top

8 linear feet of 9/16″ x 3-1/4″ primed pine baseboard

21/32″ x 17-1/4″ x 6′ Knotty Laminated Pine Panel

1/4″ thick plywood, scrap or small 2′ x 4′ piece

6 new drawer pulls

4 3″ corner braces

wood filler

1 sample pot of paint (I used Behr Silky White)

primer (I used Kilz)

Floetrol

wood stain, 8 oz. (I used Minwax in English Chestnut)

Minwax semi-gloss polycrylic protective finish, 1 quart

Drill, screws, nails, hammer, nail setter, fine-grit sandpaper, saw, wood glue, foam paintbrushes, rags, miterbox, etc.


Method:

1) Before assembling the drawers, I trimmed out the drawer fronts with the lattice trim using wood glue and brad nails.


2) Then I filled the pre-drilled holes for the included drawer knobs with wood filler; sanded the drawer fronts; and primed, painted, and poly’ed them.


To minimize my brushlines, I mixed my paint with Floetrol, painted in thin layers, and used disposable foam brushes. I covered my whole piece of furniture in 3-4 coats of Minwax’s polycrylic (which won’t yellow like polyureythane will) to protect the paint and the stain. That might be overkill, but this piece of furniture will be used every day and I’m not always very careful.


3) I assembled my drawers, following the Ikea instructions and using wood glue everywhere, then drilled new holes and attached my new hardware.


4) Then I assembled one of the frames of the drawers (without using wood glue so that I could take it apart later) to see how it went together. I assembled the other, using wood glue, and leaving out the vertical side-piece that would have abutted the other dresser.


5) I removed the center vertical board from the first dresser that I assembled and drilled all of the holes all the way through to both sides. I sawed off the thin lip on the back of the board where the dresser’s backing would rest and be nailed in. I didn’t want that lip getting in the way when the backs from both dressers were to be attached to the single center board. Then I attached the drawer runners to both sides of the board, and reassembled the first dresser, using wood glue this time.


6) I used a combination of wood glue, the pegs included for assembly, and the 4 corner braces to secure the top, front, and back pieces of the second dresser to the center piece, joining the two dressers into one. (See steps 1 and 2 from Nik’s hack.)


7) I added the lattice trim to the sides, creating a “frame” that would fall above the 3-1/4″ baseboard and below the trim at the top. (I planned for the bottom of the trim to be even with the bottom of the top boards, and even all around.) I used scrap lattice to build out the area below and above the frame in order to have something to attach the baseboard and trim to, which would bring them even with the lattice trim frame.


8) I used scrap wood, and pieces sawed from the one unused center vertical piece to build out the front pieces on the bottom, to bring them even with the front of the vertical pieces. (Step 1 of the Turquoise Home tutorial.)


9) I used scrap lattice trim to build out the front edge of the top boards, to bring them even with the front edge of the vertical pieces. (Step 3 on the Take the Sidestreet tutorial)


9) I measured the pieces I would need for my baseboard, cut them with my miter box, and attached them around the bottom using wood glue and screws.


10) I turned the dresser down on its face to attach the two pieces of composite board on the back with wood glue and nails.


11) Then I made sure all of my screws had been countersunk below the surface and all of my nails on the lattice trim had been set below the surface with my nail setter, and used wood filler to fill all of the holes.


12) I sanded everything down, primed, painted, and poly’ed the whole dresser frame, except the insides and the top boards (which would be covered with my new, solid pine top).


13) I measured and cut the pieces of trim for the top lip, mitering the corners, and stained them before attaching them to the dresser frame. (Fewer chances to spill or drip that way.)


14) I had had the guys at Home Depot cut my laminated pine board to my measurements, 13″ x 50-3/4″. These measurements gave me just enough over-hang over the top of the trim I used, but if your trim is thicker or thinner than mine, you may need different measurements.


15) I built the top up with the 1/4″ thick plywood so that it would clear the tops of the vertical boards, be even with the tops of the trim, and offer a more stable surface for attaching the top board.


16) I stained the top board and attached it to the dresser using wood glue and screws.


17) I gave the top stained trim and board 4 good coats of poly, inserted the drawers, and called it a day!


I hope you’ve enjoyed my Rast hack, and that maybe it’ll inspire you to do your own, just as all the others inspired me!







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/Xbn87xgP18g/the-unrecognizable-rast.html From Ellen

Friday, November 22, 2013

Lack Leg Switch, Taller Lack Tv Stand By: Nick Skeba

ikea


Materials: LACK TV unit and LACK side table


Description: I found that by switching the legs on the Lack end table and the TV stand I could get the height I wanted for the TV stand and have a little table for my stereo which wouldn’t fit inside the Lack TV stand.







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/dy0kzSPUMo0/lack-leg-switch-taller-lack-tv-stand.html From Nick Skeba

Hackers help: IKEA Malm Headboard Onto Existing Frame? By: saving

Hi Everyone. I would like to add a Malm Headboard to my existing bed frame. I would put it on legs and place over the arm of this futon/bed frame. (It’s my regular frame and its always open. It’s flush against a wall and the lower sides toward the head of the bed are pretty hidden, 1 side has a dresser next to it and the other side is also against a wall/window). I am really a novice but I am thinking of ways to do this and am hopeful some can give me some insight or help. I don’t have a power drill but can buy an inexpensive one. I don’t have a saw but can buy a hand one for like $10.


I would put the Malm headboard on 2 legs, and place put it over the arm. Here is a photo of the frame that is just like mine (plus a drawing of what it looks like when a frame like that is open. And there is a little render I made of the placement of things as they would be seen from behind. Excuse how uneven.Bi-Fold-with-Arms


Where I want to put the Malm headboard


For the first step, on Rachel and Zoey’s hack, I saw that they put a piece of wood on the length of bottom of the malm h/b so that the screws had something strong to go into since the Malm is not solid. So I’m pretty sure I need to do that. I’m going to check in with Home Depot today about pre-cut wood, should it be any particular kind? Sorry guys, really novice. And to adhere, I just gorilla glue and use nails or screws, right? I don’t have a clamp/vice to set it, can i gorilla glue, then use hammer and nails, then stand the joined pieces perpendicular to the floor and let the weight of the headboard do the job?


2. Then I think I need to add legs to the h/b, one at each end. How do I attach those? Do I use those dowl-like big double ended screws? Or will a bunch of braces be okay. They seem like they might be easier.


3. Then I gotta put h/b w/ legs over the top of the arm, set it into place and somehow attach the bottom of the headboard to the arm so it’s not just resting there but joined. The arm is 2” wide (around the same as the Malm hb thickness) and has about a 1” lip sticking out, can I screw screws from underneath the lip up into the bottom of the headboard? Maybe Gorrilla glue it first? And/or maybe L-braces? I know this doesn’t hold it up and just puts it in place, but …


4. Then to keep it held up I was thinking to take 3’ or so piece of wood, maybe ¾” thick and less than 2” wide, to run from ¾ from the top of the hb to ¾’s of the way to the bottom of the legs i added. That will give it some hold to stay up I’m thinking? I heard there’s some wood the malm hb around the perimeter a bit over a ½ inch wide, will that be enough wood for me to use to adhere the wood plank to?


5. Then I believe there’s 4-6” width of wood running down the middle inside the malm hb, is that about right? So I could do either the same board plank idea there but what about running one of those tension wire rope cable things and that would actually hold it up for sure (i think). I could run it from ¾’s from the top of the h/b (maybe securing it with something like either an eye bolt, or a vertically placed fence bracket, something like that, or some other kind of bracket with a space to loop the wire through, to down to the last horizontal wood piece on the frame arm, loop it around that an fasten with wire rope clips. That would hold the headboard up and take the pressure off the wood planks. I have no idea if that will pull it then too hard, or if it just isn’t the right thing to do altogether for some reason, or what.


Any thoughts the planning above? What will work, what wouldn’t, what I should add and any advice on the logistics, etc?







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/rhS7Ie-0L0E/hackers-help-ikea-malm-headboard-onto-existing-frame.html From saving

Thursday, November 21, 2013

NOT another Blanda Blank lamp! By: Eli

DSCN1421


Materials:

- NOT lamp

- BLANDA Blank salad bowl

- FIXA hole-cutting thingy


Description: This hack is pretty self-explanatory. I have one of the old silver NOT lamps, and after many years the polypropylene shade has become a bit scratched and icky. So I replaced it with the 28cm/11″ stainless steel Blanda salad bowl. I drilled a circle of holes in the bottom and used the FIXA as a punch. I think the curve of the bowl merges perfectly with the NOT.







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/PJIemxTzcy4/not-another-blanda-blank-lamp.html From Eli

Utby. Now available in White! By: tung256

utby


Materials: UTBY


Description: The Ikea Utby is a nice bar stable. Unfortunately, it is only available in brown when we were in the store. Nearby, I notice a white board surface for a small office table. The dimensions of the white board work out to be perfect replacement for the Utby brown top. So we grabbed only the Utby stainless steel frame and the white board. To protect the white board for use in the kitchen as a small dining table, I asked a local window store to cut us a piece of glass with the dimensions of the white board. The result is a super clean bar table perfect for two people!







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/nvrYAKIv2og/utby-now-available-in-white.html From tung256

PAX in the living room By: tung256

pax01


Materials: PAX


Description: My staircase are clearly visible at the front entrance door. This is considered a huge taboo in Asian culture. The solution is a Pax dresser standing directly between the entrance and the staircase. Luckily for us, the Pax doors fit on the back as well as the front side of the dresser!


pax02 pax02b pax03


The hardest part was cutting a piece of plywood to divide the Pax dresser into two parts. The front part works as a shoe rack. The back part was for hanging coats and flip-flops for walking indoors.







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/CvGFmsHoM7c/pax-in-the-living-room.html From tung256

Year Calendar By: Rich Bonfocchi

10670553784_ed66e84526_z


Materials: STRĂ–MBY (frame 70×100 cm), MĂ…LA (markers and eraser)


Description: I made a year calendar that allows you to view and organize the entire year.

- Draw the grid in the back of the paper that comes with the frame;

- Print the days and month names and glue them to the frame;

- Reassemble the frame (keeping the paper behind the glass);

- Draw the weekends on top of the glass as showed in the picture;

- Write unchangeable events like birthdays with permanent marker (optional);

- Write all other events with “MĂ…LA” markers.

- Enjoy!


Full details here.


Enjoy!


- Rich







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/6F0FqRusXxA/year-calendar-2.html From Rich Bonfocchi

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Hackers help: Small person needs big help with Skruvsta lounge chair By: Katie

skruvsta-drehstuhl__72741_PE188915_S4


Hello,


As the title says, I am having troubles with my Skruvsta lounge chair.

The maximum seating height just isn’t enough.

So I really need some ideas how to raise it about 5-7cm, because a second pillow isn’t really a comfy all time-solution for me…


I’d really appreciate your support and your ideas! Thank you very much in advance!







via IKEA Hackers http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/Ikeahacker/~3/2fD1Ugr0ClY/hackers-help-small-person-needs-big-help-with-skruvsta-lounge-chair.html From Katie