Photo: IKEA.com
Hiya,
I’ve just bought my wife a Jansjo lamp, and am wanting to extend the lead from the switch to the lamp.
But, IKEA say ‘The external flexible cable or cord cannot be replaced – If so the lamp will be destroyed’
Is this correct? – Has anybody tried it?
Looking forward to hearing from anybody.
Happy New Year!
Materials: Besta Shelves, Besta TV unit, Besta Vassbo
Inspired by Big Besta Built-ins and Papa Was a… Besta’ Stone!.
I first created a base using 2×4 and some foam (for protection) for the Besta to sit on so I could use floor trim later.
I then built a false wall to put the stone (Oxide Ledgestone and modified polymer motor from Lowes), the TV wall mount, and cables. I used 2×4′s and 5/16″ OSB.
This false wall allowed me to ‘push’ the top and bottom centre pieces to add some depth.
Leaving the one end open gives the room a more open feel when you walk in from the kitchen.
I finished the top with some crown moulding. To install it, I used 1×2 and glued/nailed to the top of the Besta units.
Misc stuff: In one of the drawers, I drilled a hole so I could place my game controllers and charge in the drawer; drilled a hole to run power and network for the printer in the bottom right cupboard; I matched the paint at Home Depot after bringing the door in and it worked great.
Used a PAX Wardrobe, BRIMNES Dresser and an Old BILLY Book Case to built a custom built-in wardrobe/dresser for a nursery. This plus a custom floating desk I did for my office was my first attempted reno project so it didn’t turn out perfect but I am happy with the final result. IkeaHackers sure did offer a lot of inspiration and helped motivate me to do this.
I basically tried to find two IKEA units that would fit the area I was working with that worked that had the same style. I built a based, frame and then pop the units in. I then added some trim and baseboards and that’s it.
I used an old BILLY bookcase to do the shelves to fill in the triangle space. Took me a while since I never had done something like this before but had fun doing it!
I wanted a cat litter box that combined the best of:
- Top entry to prevent litter escaping
- Forcing the cat to walk over a mat to prevent tracking
- Hinged door to reduce smell
My solution was a multi-storey cat litter box which has a cat flap at the top, a shelf, and a mat.
Materials:
- BESTA Cupboard (60cm tall)
- RILL Casters
- Staywell Cat Flap
- Cat litter box
- Cat litter mat
Construction:
1) Cut a u-shaped hole at the top of the side panel of your BESTA cupboard to fit the cat flap. A jigsaw is useful, but I was able to do this with just a drill and tenon saw.
2) Install your cat flap.
3) Cut another u-shaped hole in the BESTA shelf, about half way, being careful to leave enough room around the holes that mount the shelf.
4) Put together your BESTA cupboard.
5) Add casters if you want it to be able to move it around.
6) Double sided tape down a cat litter mat on the shelf to prevent tracking, and put in your cat litter box.
Materials: Old IKEA uplight from the 1990s (we have 2 of those couldn’t find their name)
1. STRUCTURE:
made of reed, jute string and white paper tape
- attach a loop of string around the neck of the uplight, with already 4 long strings (floor length) attached to it
- create hoops of reed directly around the base of the tree. tape each with paper tape.make as many as you wish. start with the smallest one and increase size each time, leaving a space of 3 inches from the previous hoop.
- start from the smallest hoop: bring it to the top, and attach it with the strings with knots spaced by quarters. do the same thing for all the hoops in order of size, attaching them lower everytime by about 5 inches.
- add extra strings in between if you feel that your hoops are not stable enough.
2. ORNAMENTS:
made mostly of draft paper and used giftwraps (tissue paper, cardboard & ribbons) that we have been keeping over the years; the ties are made with cotton thread from our sewing kit.
any technique you wish: origami, celtic knots, cut-out shapes, garlands, etc.
3. POLE:
tape some white draft paper around the base of the pole.
find a large ribbon, tape it to the base, and wrap around upwards until the look pleases you, and tape at the top with paper tape (I stopped below the knob).
Happy Holidays ! ! !
We needed an easy way to expand our family room table top when we play board games with guests. We’d looked at different options for table tops, but the LINNMON price ($5.99) was irresistible, and about 1/5 the price of any of the other options.
To finish the hack, we took the unmodified table top, found the center on the bottom, and used the measurements of the depression in the chest that we use as our coffee table. By cutting a couple extra garden stakes into small sections with a 45 degree angle, we created two “corners” that we could glue to the underside of the LINNMON table top in the appropriate place.
Once the glue was dry, it’s as easy as flipping the table top over into the coffee table/chest depression. With the “corners” in place, the table top is centered and doesn’t move when bumped! Less than 30 minutes and problem solved – now we can entertain and not have to bring the kitchen table into the family room.
This hack could easily be modified for any of the IKEA table tops. As long as the top of your coffee table or chest has a small depression, just build the corners and glue (or nail) them in place in the center of the IKEA table top, and the corners will hold the table top steady when it’s flipped onto the coffee table.
This is simply the Norden leaf table with some leg extensions and casters, used as a conveniently storable table for tracing out patterns and cutting cloth for home dressmaking.
Photo: IKEA.com
In total the table is raised 16cm. It is important to get casters with brakes so the table doesn’t move in use. I used some steel brackets which have a screw about 6mm diameter fixed to them, which goes into the extension piece. I drilled two holes right through the legs and used 2 X M5 countersunk bolts secured with nuts because I thought wood screws might tear out. This wasn’t enough to keep the extension pieces from pivoting slightly, so I added some plates secured with wood screws. The end result is not elegant but is acceptable for a workbench. The hack could also be improved by using smaller casters which would have room to swivel properly.
