Materials: MICKE desk
Change the look of a MICKE desk. Step by step here.
via IKEA Hackers http://ift.tt/1e1Re9i From Christine K.
Materials: MICKE desk
Change the look of a MICKE desk. Step by step here.
Materials: TRABY, TRISSA
The smaller (discontinued) Trissa boxes are perfect for storing 7″ records. I had 9 of them stacked messily. So I made a cabinet to house them.
Starting with a square Traby 2×2 unit and a smaller donor Traby, I added a shelf (screwed to back & sides for strength) and simple runners. This makes the unit a perfect size for the Trissa boxes.
Materials: PAX sliding door frames
Nevermind those regular door panels.. make your own panels by using what has been giving to you: the cardboard box! When buying your Pax closet, leave the door panels as they are. Your door panels are already in your hands: the box your closet came in.
Cut the cardboard box into 101 x 57,5 cm rectangular shapes and simply slide those in the door frame. You can even be creative and pimp the panels with a nice drawing. No extra costs and very ‘green’. Your Pax closet box – re-used!
Materials: FAKTUM kitchen cabinet, HARLIG door, PATRULL cabinet lock
Our boxer dog made a complete mess when he was eating his meals, due to him moving around his food and water bowl while he was slobbering up his water and food. Food all over the place, wet floors, and not even the freshly tiled wall behind it could keep the mess from sticking everywhere.
I needed a cheap, yet aesthetically appealing and easy to clean solution to keep his bowls nice and sturdy in place, ASAP!
We recently put Faktum cabinets up in our wash/dryer room for extra storage, and while I was putting them together, I got it.
I made a food bar for our boxer, using a Faktum cabinet. I turned it on it’s side (hinges down), I made two holes in it to hold the bowls. I lined the holes with rubber tape to keep the bowls from moving and making those clonking sounds, and I put wheels underneath the cabinet, so we could move it when needed. Needless to say the wheels have brakes on ‘em.
Underneath we now have some extra space to store our boxer’s stuff, like towels and treats. I put in the Patrull cabinet locks, because our furry boy is smart, and he’d find a way to open that door.
We were able to get a new floor now (not in the photo). But just to be on the safe side, we now put a Kolon floor protector (usually used for underneath office chairs…and yes, it actually is called Kolon) underneath.
Materials: DIODER, LINNMON, OLOV, STIG
My boyfriend asked kindly if we could have a bar with stools in our living room. Sure, okay; but we had to work around a few issues.
1) It had to fit with another MDF plate which was already mounted.
2) Measurements, we were looking for a 70x120cm tabletop.
3) Costs, we didn’t want to spend more than 75 euros for it all.
4) It had to have something special.
Walking through Ikea, we found a black-brown LINNMON table top. Color, perfect. Price, perfect. Measurements, less perfect. It measures 60x120cm, but we could work with that.
For the legs, we bought two OLOV legs. To finish it off, two high STIG stools would do the trick.
And for point 4, the special part was to include an iPad mini into the LINNMON table top.
First, we outlined the iPad with a pencil. Then drilled a few holes and removed the top layer of the LINNMON table top.
The honeycomb inside is perfect to give the iPad the support it needed, by bending it to the right size and a way to guide the lightning cable. We drilled a hole into the side of the table and used a folding rule to get the cable through the table.
With a black marker, you can make the inside of the table black – to make it look tighter.
And for a finishing touch, we’ve added 4 RGB DIODER led strips on the bottom of the table.
Sidenote; this is the older RGB DIODER – The newer version has a turnswitch instead of a button.
Materials: ORSA drawer fronts x 2, RIBBA shelves x 2, Hangers x 2, Screws x 6
Using two RIBBA (21 inch) picture shelves and two drawer fronts (I think Orsa 7 3/4 x 6 1/4 inches) from the as-is bin. I positioned the bottom of the RIBBA’s two inches from the bottom and two inches from the top of the Orsa’s. I then pre-drilled and screwed the RIBBA’s to the Orsa’s. I screwed one hanger onto each of the Orsa’s and hung the assembly over my liquor cabinet. It holds glasses nicely.
Materials: METOD kitchen units, Maximera drawers, Veddinge doors and drawers
The cupboard under the stairs had a narrow doorway, just two shelves inside and the area at the far end (the bottom of the stairs) was just inaccessible and, therefore, wasted.
I ripped out all the old woodwork, checking as I went that the cupboard door frame wasn’t structural and that the staircase would stay up. Next I put in a Metod 60x60x80 kitchen base unit, the only item I used which wasn’t hacked. Next to that, I put in a 20x60x80 shelf unit to fill the space between the wall and the drawer units. I couldn’t use 80cm wide drawers because the radiator on the wall would obstruct their opening, but there was room to open the 20cm wide door, once the unit was raised up by 40cm to clear the radiator valve.
The top of the 20cm unit was cut to match the rising treads of the staircase before being fitted alongside the drawer unit. The 20cm unit is screwed to the adjacent base unit and the top half-unit is screwed to the 20cm unit. The top half-unit is fixed to the base unit using one of the angle brackets supplied by IKEA for fixing the unit to the wall. The bracket had to be cut in half, the sharp edges filed off and one hole drilled out to use the supplied fixing screws.
Next, one side panel of the second Metod 60x60x80 base unit was cut in half to make two 40 cm sides which were cut the same way as the 20cm unit to match the stair treads and attached to the top of the first base unit. I’d bought 3 60×40 drawer fronts and “high” Maximera drawer units to go in here, but found that with the stairs at the back, the height at the back of the top drawer was restricted so I had to replace the “high” Maximera drawer unit with a medium height drawer.
At the toe end of the stairs, I cut the remaining side of the second Metod base unit into two unequal sizes, 26cm and 54cm to fit under the stairs as closely as practical, then built it using the remaining parts. The back panel had to be cut to match the stairs again. It wasn’t possible to use the metal cross-struts at the front of the unit, but I put one on the back of the unit as high as possible, given the unequal heights of the sides. The drawer-front for this unit was made from a Veddinge door, 60 x 80, cut down to height and with a sloping top to match the stair unit sides. An off-cut from this was also used to make the final in-fill piece at the bottom of the stairs.
The large panel on the side is another Veddinge door, 60 x 120 cut at an angle to match the stairs with the offcut used to make the infill panel above the drawer unit. The spacer is a length of beading of the appropriate thickness, painted white to match.
As we didn’t want a handle sticking out into the hallway, we bought beech inset doorhandles and routed out the Veddinge panels accordingly.
The final item is the small 20×40 Veddinge drawerfront used to cover the inaccessible bottom corner beside the radiator, held in place with two magnet catches.
Materials: FRAKTA
On my balcony, I tried to built a hanging garden wall. I sew new little shopping bags in miniature size, about 10x10x10 cm, on each side, I add something to hang. At the ceiling, I fixed chains and I hung up the little bags with small hooks, you can use paperclips as well.
You can now plant for example different herbs. Each Bag has a little hole at the bottom. When you add water to the plant above, the water runs from plant to plant.